Grand Canyon, Colorado River - Day 3

GRAND CANYON 2000

Wednesday, August 23rd - Awake with no nausea or ant bite sting! Smell coffee brewing and leftover garlic mashed potatoes frying into breakfast pancakes! ALLRIGHT!!breakfast in bed This trip has taken a turn for the better for Tanya! I wolf down several potato pancakes plus scrambled eggs and 2 cups of rich coffee. Whew, looks like I will survive after all.
Guide leader, Lava Larry, gathers everyone together to outline today's activities. First a couple small rapids, then a very short, silent hike led by guide Charly into a slit canyon, raft some more, lunch, longer hike to a waterfall, more rapids and an opportunity to pilot a single person kayak.
I am thrilled. A very short hike sounds do-able and after lunch I can hang by the boats to try to capture some of the manificent scenery with my little watercolor set. And Tanya has secured a position in the BACK of Charly's boat, where you stay a bit drier and can see the rapids coming. As for the kayak, I don't think so.
Lorenzo joins me on Charly's boat today. Charly has a very inspiring personal story. He was an unsatisfied 35 year old midwest construction company owner, who given an opportunity to raft the Grand Canyon, and within minutes felt tears, goosebumps and invisible welcoming arms telling him he was now home. Now a spritely 58 years young, he is totally in his element explaining to Lorenzo and I how spiritually fullfilled he is living this life, sharing his knowledge of the canyon and river with others.river guide, Charly A soft spoken man, he helps Tanya find even more beauty in this wilderness where no two days are alike. Though he shies away from the mantle "spiritual" he exudes a calmness and serenity that helps soothe Tanya's trepidations of the unknown river. Cool.
Later his short hike takes us into a very deep, narrow 'slit canyon'. We walk single file in silence marveling at the beauty of the ancient rock formations. It is cool and quiet. Charly produces some type of wooden flute and plays a lovely, haunting tune that echoes through the canyon and your soul. Yeah, I'm diggin' the canyon experience.
Back on the river. Well, backseat rafting is way more Tanya's style. You get a very fun ride much like a bucking bronco or bouncing on a trampoline with your fat cousin. Gotta hold on tight, though, this bronco really bucks in a big rapid. No problem, my knuckles have been white since Monday. I learn that rapids in a big river like the Colorado are rated 1 through 10. Monday's Horn is usually a 9 or 10, Crystal a 10+. So far today's rapids are between 3 and 5. No sweat.
After lunch (deli sandwiches) Lorenzo and most of the others opt for the afternoon hike. Tanya options Charly's beach umbrella and a comfy section of sand. Out comes the little watercolor set. A perfect canyon vista downriver. An hour passes as I struggle to capture this scene. My artistic skills are no match for nature's. I try again, but my attempt lacks the depth and impact of the original. Oh well, first try is always experimental.
The hot, sweaty hikers return as I put away paint and brush. The one man kayaks, "Rubber Duckys", are unpacked and inflated. Graham, our British friend and high school age, Brian want to try the river rapids solo. Helmets and double ended paddles are added to the lifejacketed river ensemble and they are off. Brian, who up to this point has been very subdued, is now grinning so wide is face is nearly cracked in half."rubber duckies" He and Graham pound through the rapids, whooping and laughing like mad. In the calmer sections, a nonchalant Graham pulls up to Charly's boat where Lorenzo offers a "Well done, Gov!". Everyone boats happily downriver.
We are treated to two sightings of big horn sheep, 3 rams grazing together and then about 10 ewes with one baby run down to the river as we pass. Wildlife, what fun. Near the end of the afternoon comes a larger rapid, Specter. Rated 7 or 8, Graham and Brian are instructed to 'hit the rapids straight on'. In they went. The waves were big. Once Brian rolled, but stayed in his kayak. Next, Graham did the same.

Then Specter produced a wicked lateral wave and pummeled both kayaks at once burying them under a ton of white water. A second later one kayak popped up - empty! Then pop, pop, pop - one paddle, the other paddle, the other kayak (empty!), Brian's head (thank goodness) all come up, but no Graham! You can hear the panic in the yells of the guides - "Anybody see him?". where's Graham?!Brian struggles to break free of the rapid and swim to the nearest boat. At least10 seconds pass (seems WAY longer) before Graham's head finally pops up. Cheers and more yelling. The river is cold (less than 50û) and Graham is exhausted, but manages to swim to the paddleboat where he is dragged in like a sack of wet laundry. BIG sighs of relief all around.
That night at camp, Graham tells of his underwater nightmare, trying to surface, but coming up under his kayak, unable to see in the dark water, no air, river current pulling him toward the jagged rocks. As frightening as it was, Graham saved himself by not panicking. Nonetheless, that was the last time the Rubber Duckys came out on our trip!
That evening at camp, Charly helps restore equilibrium to the group by reading from one of his Native American books whose overall theme being - fear is only a preconception and can be exagerated out of proportion by the mind. Focus on the "now" rather than the "what if" is the key to combat fear. We are encouraged to discuss the various events that have been frightening, then relate what actually occurred. Oh, that's right. Nobody was actually bitten by that rattlesnake or drowned in the river. Tanya is inspired! She will face her fears! A modified hike is on schedule tomorrow, desination the 'jacuzzi'!! Tanya decides she is confident enough to give hiking a try.