GRAND CANYON 2000

Tuesday, August 22nd - Another big day of knarly rapids ahead. Gulp. Hope my dehydration nausea fades before I have to squeeze into that lifejacket again. Tanya knows she is sick when ordered to eat lots of crispy bacon (salt content) to combat dehydration, finds she can barely swallow her favorite breakfast food.
Lorenzo on the other hand is having a hell of a good time. Choosing the paddleboat yesterday, he enthusiastically paddled all day after the hike down, peed repeatedly throughout the night and scarfed up a major french toast and bacon breakfast. I am trying not to vomit.
Lorenzo and the others in yesterday's paddleboat (you have two choices - paddleboat or oarboat and you may choose a new boat every morning) are asked to remain as today's paddle team. This morning's rapid, Crystal, has a particularly notorious reputation and they are now a seasoned paddle crew. Tanya is, to say the least, concerned. Our first rapid, Horn, is so nasty at the water level we are riding in (8000cfs), the guidebook states running it is 'not recommended'. And Crystal is worse? I wonder where the guide leader keeps that satellite phone, can I find it and can I get a helicopter here to rescue me before we break camp.
I choose to ride in Bill's boat again (in spite of yesterday's near flip). Bill, the river guide, is an odd combination of lunatic and mellow hippy. Hiking down from the South Rim yesterday, I was alone near the last 1/2 mile. Coming around a bend in the trail, I see a couple of strange looking people lounging on a rock ledge in the shade. The half-naked freak with a Pippi Longstocking hairdo jumps up when I pass and scares poor Tanya. It's only Bill recognizing the traditional CanyonX rainbow stripe strap on the waterjug I am carrying identifying me as one of his new passengers. I confirm that I am on the CanyonX trip and looking for my large husband. Right on, says Bill and points me in the river's direction.
We arrive near Crystal rapid and the guides pull our boats to shore. This rapid must be 'scouted' which means the guides hike to a spot where they can see the entire run, put their heads together deciding which course to take and pee repeatedly. Tanya learns, the more difficult a rapid, the more it makes the guides pee. The anticipation is excruciating. Finally all of us in the boats get out to pee. Thus relieved, we run Crystal successfully. Lunchtime, the MexiWraps (beans, rice, olives, veggies in tortillas) are delicious, then chill by the boats as the rest of the group goes off to hike Hakatai Canyon. Tanya's toe is aflame with the little red ant bite. The only relief I find is to keep my foot in the cold river. The problem is, it is too hot to sit in the sun near the river. The only shade is a hot sandy walk up a steep hill and once I am settled, the toe begins to throb again. Wah! I pray for a few clouds. The canyon gods hear my plea. Ah, the relief! Sitting in the now cooler sand, bathing my toe I see more clouds on the horizon. Suddenly a clap of thunder. Ooh! Thunder is very impressive in the Grand Canyon. Tanya WAS hoping for a small thunderstorm for atmosphere. A few minutes pass and another boom of thunder is followed by a crack of lightning! COOL! Note, this action is way off on the horizon. Tanya enjoys her little show alone. Lorenzo is napping in the shade at the top of the beach, finally tuckered out from hiking, paddling and eating. A few minutes more and the gods decide to put on a show for everyone. BIG thunder. Lightning streaks across the sky right over head. A sprinkle of rain, followed by a fucking downpour in the blink of an eye! Tanya scrambles up the hilly beach to the small outcropping of rocks offering shelter where Lorenzo has been shaken from his nap. We sit huddled together,
enjoying this weather, rain warmed by the hot canyon walls dribbling down our backs.