
GRAND CANYON 2000
Thursday,
August 17th -
Awake at 3:30AM, try to go back to sleep. Right. Put coffee on, finish
packing, straighten house, double and triple check the various 'lists'
- did I pack this, remember to do that, etc. Plug in telephone answering
machine, lock the front door, jump in the UFV (Ultimate Fun Vehicle -
also known as full size van with custom storage and sleeping area) and
HIT THE ROAD.
I am Tanya and with my hubby, Lorenzo, are off on a long awaited adventure
to the Grand Canyon (and beyond, but that is another tale). The Grand
Canyon. I spent less than 24 hours there more than 15 years ago and it's
magic beauty has been calling to me to return ever since. So overpowering
was this call, that I booked us on a NINE DAY white water river raft trip
down the Colorado river.
Now you must understand, I am a "room-service" type of girl. preferred
accomodations include heated pool and spa, 24 hr room service (full menu
thank you), wide selection of current movies on big TV, ocean front (I
like tropical locales) with sundeck. Full housekeeping services goes without
saying. I developed these preferences during years with my sister, who
as a travel professional, received numerous 'industry perks'.
Today I am married to an outdoor guy (made me buy big, ugly hiking boots)
and our regular destinations usually feature pit toilets. My packing lists
now include Pamª spray instead of Opiumª, rubber Tevasª instead of gold
sandals and a National Park issue 'belly bag' instead of my usual faux
tiger skin handbag.
So off we go! Heading south from our home in San Francisco, the plan is
to cross the Sierra Nevada at Sherman pass, visit Death Valley and Las
Vegas before we arrive in Flagstaff, Arizona where the river guide company
will take us to the Grand Canyon. The plan did not include getting lost
for an entire afternoon, nearly running out of gas, trying to find Sherman
Pass; encountering a French bicycle team cycling their way across Death
Valley, where at noon on August 18th was 115û (holy merd! just STANDING
outside felt like you were in a hair dryer blowing full blast); and having
our UFV break down just as we were leaving Vegas! Ever try to find a car
dealership service department willing to look at your out of town vehicle
on a Saturday morning? Ever try to find an OPEN dealership service department
- in Vegas - on Saturday morning? Ever think you are going to kiss $4,000.00
of non-refundable vacation reservations away? Let's just say that Friendly
Ford's, Dennis Eich is a hero in Tanya's book!
Sunday,
August 20th
- Slept in a campground 40 miles from Flagstaff. Get up, get organized,
go to the Radisson Inn where we meet Canyon Exploration representative,
Laura, and the other people joining us on this adventure. Bob and Judy
are youthful retirees now growing grapes for Welch's in Michigan. Graham
is English, a member of Parliment (but nice, Labor party you know) and
has rafted with CanyonX before. Greg and Alexandra, thirtysomethings from
Denver, are now living in Kentucky. From Alabama, Tricia has decided to
travel solo. Patty, a friend of one of our guides-to-be, has earned herself
a trip by volunteering to be an assistant.
We learn a little about each other, what to do and expect in the canyon
and WAY too much about evacuation and storage of poo. Tanya will find
elimination is the hot topic of polite conversation throughout the trip!
OoooKaaay.
Oriented, backpacks and new water jugs full, we file out to the waiting
van which will drive us to the canyon South Rim, where we will sleep tonight.
Tomorrow at daybreak we begin our hike down to the river. Fortunately
Tanya spies the hiking boots that an overly excited Lorenzo has forgotten
to pack!
An hour later we arrive, checking into the Bright Angel Lodge, Tanya is
on the verge of tears. My dream of returning to the canyon has become
a reality and my room has a view! No time for the view now as we have
only minutes before dinner reservations at the historic El Tovar. After
dinner and a fabulous sunset, we buy postcards, return to our room to
watch TV and use a bathroom (the orientation description of the 'facilities'
rattling in my brain).
Wakeup call is 4:45AM
Monday,
August 21st
- Hike 7 1/2 miles (begin in the dark) carrying heavy pack, get strapped
into corsetlike lifejacket, jump into big yellow rubber boat (after learning
even more about bodily functions), hit major rapid 1/4 mile down river
(backwards, boat pops an oar, nearly flip),
get bit on the toe by fire ant at camp, sleep fitfully and wake up nauseous
(dehydration sickness) - Welcome to the Grand Canyon, Tanya! What was I
thinking?! I am totally traumatized. I am terrified. And it's only the
FIRST DAY! The water is HUGE, cold, muddy brown and boiling down the canyon.
One minute the sun is blazing and you think you will fry, the next, a
cloudburst rains down a storm soaking you to the skin. Campsites crawl
with fire ants, the most toxic poison insect in the canyon, who could
kill you if it's teeny mouth could get a bigger bite. We won't even discuss
the scorpion factor. The guides are a different breed, speaking a river
language I cannot understand. The original rafters (our group is joining
a trip that began 7 days ago and are replacing 9 others hiking out of
the canyon near Phantom Ranch) are old friends and seem at ease in this
alien world.
What WAS I thinking?? Boy did Tanya ever get a bucket (no, river) of cold
water dumped on her fantasy. Too many Disney Wildlife Adventure Programs.
Will I be able to survive my own adventure??
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